Josh Wharton
Photo Courtesy of Scott Cramer
At only 26, Josh Wharton has already made a significant impact upon the world of alpine climbing. In the summer of 2002, on the first ascent of the Flame in northeastern Pakistan, Josh made what American Alpine Journal editor John Harlin called, “one of the boldest summit leads in climbing history,” climbing 150 feet of completely unprotected 5.10 slab to reach spire’s tiny summit. In 2004, Josh succeeded on the much-attempted Southeast Ridge of Great Trango Tower; with vertical gain of 7,400 feet it is perhaps among the longest rock routes in the world.
Josh and his partner Kelly Cordes climbed the route with a single 28lb pack between them in four and a half days, suffering through the final two days without water. Climbing legend Jack Tackle called the route, “one of the best alpine climbing achievements in recent history.” Josh has also climbed difficult routes in other areas of the world. He’s completed significant repeats, first ascents, and first free ascents from Patagonia, to Black Canyon National Park, to The Cirque of the Unclimbables.
In 2003 Josh received the American Alpine Club’s Robert Bates Youth Award for “cutting edge climbing achievement, and great potential for future success.” Josh currently makes his home in Rifle, Colorado.